These products are lightweight and easy
to cut and work using good woodworking tools, so installation is relatively
easy. Below is our guide on how to install.
The tools you will need:
- Sharp toothed woodworking saw.
- Knives or chisels (for trimming).
- Oval-headed nails.
- Nail punch.
- Adhesive.
- Touch-up kit (contains filler/stain/brown wax).
Exposing the product core
Whilst the surface of these products is finished to look just like wood,
a cut section will expose the core. Usually this will be concealed by
a joint but where it is not you should use items from the touch-up kit.
Where designs include a suspended end i.e. where the end of a piece
is fully visible, it is best to order a factory-finished end piece to
improve the final appearance.
Main Beams/Great Beam
As you will see from the profile illustrations shown with each product
option, these beams are ‘U’ shaped. Main Beams are best
fitted around a soft wood batten cut to the size of this ‘U’.
For the Great Beam your RSJ fulfills this purpose, although some
'packing out' may be required.
1. Screw the batten to the ceiling timbers. Then fit the beam
around it using adhesive where the beam meets the ceiling and where
it meets the batten.
2. You should also use oval-headed nails every 2 feet, punching
the nail heads beneath the surface and out of sight within the rough
grain of the moulding surface (if necessary you can also cover the head
with brown wax from the touch-up kit).
3. Main Beams 2 and 3 can be simply butt joined, with the joints
covered by the relevant Simulated Iron Bracket (see product page).
4. In order for the beam to touch the wall both sides you will
need to ‘manufacture’ some room for manoeuvre. There are
two methods for doing this.
a. Knock out a pocket about 1.5” deep on one wall to allow
you the manoeuvre room to push the beam tight to the far wall. Attach
the beam and then re-plaster up to it.
b. Cut a short 2” - 3” piece from the end of the
beam, manoeuvre it into position tight against the far wall. Attach
the beam and then re-adhere the cut piece to the end.
5. Finish with filler, stain and wax from the touch-up kit.
Intermediate Beams
These are best fitted to a softwood batten that has been securely
fixed to the ceiling timbers. Decide which face of your beam will fix
to the ceiling (Intermediate beams are 4 sided) and cut out a section
that will fit over your batten (this should be no wider than the cavity
hole within the product, but can be narrower).
1. Screw the batten to the ceiling timbers. Then fit the beam
around it using adhesive where the beam meets the ceiling and where
it meets the batten.
2. You should also use oval-headed nails every 2 feet, punching
the nail heads beneath the surface and out of sight within the rough
grain of the moulding surface (if necessary you can also cover the head
with brown wax from the touch-up kit).
3. If you are joining 2 Intermediate Beams together to make
a longer beam you are best to cut diagonally to better hide the join.
Then make a ‘plate’ by cutting a piece of hardboard to size
and painting it. Join the plate to the beam with our B1 plated joint
nuts and bolts (see below).
4. Intermediate Beams join to Main Beams and wall with simple
butt joints (any exposed inner core areas will then not be visible).
You may need to make some room for manoeuvre in which case you have
two options:
a. Knock out a pocket about 1.5” deep on one wall to allow
you the manoeuvre room to push the beam tight to the far wall. Attach
the beam and then re-plaster up to it.
b. Cut a short 2” - 3” piece from the end of the
beam, manoeuvre it into position tight against the far wall. Attach
the beam and then re-adhere the cut piece to the end.
5. Finish with filler, stain and wax from the touch-up kit.
Half Depth Intermediate Beams
For these you can follows the instructions for Intermediate Beams
as shown above. Alternatively, use glue to adhere to the ceiling and
also use oval-headed nails every 2 feet (nailing diagonally into the
ceiling). Punch the nail heads beneath the surface and out of sight
with the rough grain of the moulding surface (if necessary you can also
cover the head with brown wax from the touch-up kit).
Joists and Planks
Use glue and oval headed nails diagonally every 2 feet. Ensure that
the point of the nail is protruding through the back of the joist before
you strike it so that it pierces the ceiling plaster immediately, rather
than ‘skating’ on the glue. Punch the nail heads beneath
the surface and out of sight with the rough grain of the moulding surface
(if necessary you can also cover the head with brown wax from the touch-up
kit).Use simple close butt joints where ends meet another surface.
Wood Effect Cornice, Friezes, Architrave, Railing and Skirting
Some people simply use adhesive, which is fine on smaller mouldings.
For additional strength, especially with cornices and larger mouldings,
use small headed nails also. Punch nail heads beneath the surface and
out of sight within the grain of the moulding surface (if necessary
you can cover the head with brown wax from the touch up kit). Keep
in mind that traditionally wooden features like these were simply butt
joined and, unlike plaster, these joints were not filled.
Fireplaces
Fireplace 1 is supplied with mirror plates for ease of installation.
Fireplace 2 is made up from products from our beams range and we recommend
the same installation process.
Corbels
Simply use glue and nails. Punch nail heads beneath the surface and
out of sight within the grain of the moulding surface (if necessary
you can cover the head with brown wax from the touch up kit). If
you are supporting something with the corbels, screws are recommended
rather than nails for extra strength.
Plate Racks and Cottage Shelf
Fix securely using glue and wall plugs and screws. The screws should
be counter sunk beneath the surface, ideally within the carved areas
to be less obvious, and filled using the touch-up kit.
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